For a die-hard indie kid defined by '90s music, I was set on making a pilgrimage to the city that gave us Nirvana and going straight to the park that had become a shrine to Kurt Cobain.

ABERDEEN, Wash. — The sign on Highway 8 on the way into town reads ‘Come as You Are’ and there's Kurt Cobain Memorial Park on the banks of the Wishkah. But Lee and Dani Bacon always had the ...