The great 20th-century New York chronicler Joseph Mitchell often wrote about the Fulton Fish Market, both in The New Yorker and in his collection of stories “Old Mr. Flood” (1948).

The much-anticipated reopening comes 13 months after the historic Fulton Street eatery had to abandon its planned launch in March 2020 as COVID-19 shuttered ravaged the city. Patrons will now be able ...