In Venice, he saw seaside strollers spearing fishy fried morsels out of paper cones with toothpicks. Spina’s version of the classic fritto misto—tail-on shrimp, calamari, cherry peppers ...

Starting in one corner, roll the piece of paper diagonally to form a cone shape. Any shape is fine, but make sure one end of the cone (the tip) is closed. Use tape to keep the paper cone from ...

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