Then, this winter, Roberto exploded. I’m still not entirely sure why. Maybe we’re all chronicling our dinner more than we used to, or maybe this year’s winter demands beans and kale more ...

Sardinian Herb Soup With Fregola and White Beans (S’erbuzzu) Start to finish: 45 minutes. Servings: 4. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve. 3 to 4 ounces pancetta, chopped.