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CAYE CAULKER, Belize — As I stepped inside the Barrier ... away from the main drag of restaurants and bars. We turned a corner, and he pointed at the I&I Bar, a half-indoor, half-outdoor hangout ...

Just about 20 miles north of Belize City sits Caye Caulker, a 4-mile-long ... visitors flock to the restaurants, shops and hotels perched at the northern tip near the Split (the area where ...