A tourist cliche unfolds as we chug our way out to the tiny island of Spinalonga on a white-painted wooden fishing boat. The captain has gnarly fingers and a sun-beaten face. Cubist houses tumble ...

The island is Spinalonga, a small, teardrop-shaped islet just off the northern coast of Crete, near Elounda. Measuring just 85,000 square metres, it’s a short 20-minute boat ride away - but a ...