Exceptions abound, but that's an accurate description of the lovely Robiola Tre Latti from Luigi Guffanti, the esteemed Italian affinatore, or cheese ager. The "tre latti" (three milks ...

The most charming example I have seen recently is Robiola Incavolata (roh-bee-OH-la in-cah-voh-LAH-ta), a young goat's milk cheese cloaked in a crinkly leaf of savoy cabbage. Produced in Piedmont ...