The destination is a 3-acre spit of floury white sand called Ranguana Caye, 18 miles off the coast ... skin-singeing fire coral, and whale sharks feasting on guppies. But first I have to get ...

The area, known as "Zone D" within the reserve, was a place where fishermen used to clean their catches of the day, which attracted myriad underwater residents like sting rays, nurse sharks and ...