Sept. 20, 2004 -- — Somewhere in Granada's alleyways, a flute plays, popcorn pops, and a knife sharpener starts up his wheel. The narrow, mazelike streets give the southern Spanish town a sense ...

48 Hours In: Granada, Spain ... seek out the university's 19th-century botanical gardens at Plaza de los Lobos in the south-west of the Old Town. THE ICING ON THE CAKE.

Travel writer John Graham-Hart has visited more than 85 countries but keeps returning to Granada.