The charcoal grills burn strong in Lucknow’s failing light. The streets are alive with smoke and flame, the call to prayer and the delicate scent of spiced meat. Ajay Jain, a Lucknowi who grew ...

British historian Rosie Llewellyn-Jones studied Urdu in London and did her PhD on Lucknow. She calls the City of Nawabs her second home and has visited it more than 20 times in the past four decades.