pickling the fish, albeit briefly. I like to cook gurnard, sardines and fresh anchovies "escabeche" style. I fillet them if large enough, dip in seasoned flour, deep-fry till cooked, then pickle ...

Hogan opts for hake, a mild-flavored white fish that doesn’t compete with the simple beer batter that coats the fillets before frying. Serve these showstopping fish sandwiches with potato chips ...