“Nice place to hang, huh?” Eastman said. Christina Eastman stands for a portrait by the North Santiam River on the back edge of her family's farm in Scio, Ore., Friday, Dec. 9, 2022.

WATKINS GLEN, N.Y. — It was a crisp October day at Farm Sanctuary, and inside the small, red barn, the chicken people were restless. A rooster, or maybe two, yodeled somewhere out of sight.