The opening of Blackwall Hitch this spring was like a big, sprawling and sparkly ocean liner pulling into the Eastport neighborhood of Annapolis. Blackwall Hitch is not really a seagoing vessel.

Chloe Lynn, who runs a popular DMV-based food blog on TikTok as @Chloelynneats, paid a visit this week to Blackwall Hitch in the Inner Harbor but left hungry after she saw some of its patrons.

It opened as the Bridgeview in the 1950s. When I first moved to Annapolis in the late 1960s, it was The Yardarm. I remember it later as Spiro’s and then, most recently, The Rockfish. That plain ...